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| Angelika/Mike Schilli |
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Angelika All of Germany seems to be in San Francisco in August, at least if we rely on our private statistics. And since we keep getting inquiries about what is worth seeing in San Francisco that isn't in every run-of-the-mill travel guide, today I would like to introduce you to Valencia Street, which is just around the corner from us.
If you've shopped till you dropped at all the factory outlet centers and GAP, Nike, and Levi's stores, and are looking for a different kind of shopping experience, head over to Valencia Street. Here, you'll find all sorts of interesting shops that you won't find in every commercial district around the world, along with great restaurants and cafes that aren't named Starbucks, all mixed with a unique San Francisco flair. Now, Valencia Street is not a grand boulevard prettily converted into a pedestrian zone for hordes of tourists. Quite the opposite, cars zoom back and forth, double park, or sometimes stop on the rather wide median strip, with cyclists whizzing along the bike path next to the street.
Ten years ago, Valencia Street, which officially belongs to the "Mission" district, was known as the boundary up to which one could safely walk at night before reaching the somewhat rougher, sometimes quite unsafe areas of the Mission neighborhood. Nowadays, the Mission is generally a trendy nightlife district, and on Friday evenings, it becomes very lively. For example, many shops on Valencia Street stay open late on Friday evenings to attract a crowd of night owls to the area. The homeless are also aware of this, and position themselves strategically along Valencia Street. Some locals are a bit nostalgic for the times when Valencia Street mainly consisted of thrift stores (shops that often sell used goods for a good cause), household appliance stores, and auto repair shops. However, a few of these businesses still call Valencia Street their home.
If you want to get to Valencia Street, the best way is to take the subway (BART) to 16th Street/Mission and walk up 16th Street to Valencia. Then, continue along Valencia Street towards 24th Street. One store you definitely shouldn't miss is "Paxton Gate" (between 19th Street and 20th Street). With its skeletons, non-living colorful beetles and butterflies, fossils, and stuffed animals, it always reminds me of a natural history museum. The difference is that you can actually buy the stuff there.
Right next door is the so-called Pirate Store (officially 826 Valencia). Here you can buy everything a good pirate needs these days, from eye patches, skull flags, to glass eyes. A huge pot of lard, which pirates supposedly can't do without, adorns the center of the store. This trip back to my childhood also serves a good cause. Everything you purchase in the store benefits the writing workshop for children located in the back of the store. Volunteers help children aged 6 to 18 put their thoughts on paper and develop a love for writing. The author Dave Eggers, who gained fame with his partly autobiographical novel "A Heartbreaking Work of Staggering Genius" (published in German as "Ein herzzerreißendes Werk von umwerfender Genialität"), founded this nonprofit organization. There are now branches in Los Angeles, Chicago, Seattle, New York, Michigan, and Boston.
Regarding literature, there is a considerable number of independent bookstores on Valencia Street that need all the support they can get to stand up against giants like Amazon, Barnes & Noble, and Borders. So, browse through "Dog Eared Books" or "Modern Times Bookstore" and buy something. In the latter, any old '68er will feel at home. There are plenty of political books from the leftist spectrum. But there are also other interesting and unusual books on the shelves. I recently discovered a memoir at "Modern Times Bookstore" by a substitute teacher ("Dave Roche - On Subbing") who had worked in various special education classes. And the book about Americans who turned their backs on their country and tried their luck abroad was also an exciting read ("Mark Ehrman - Getting Out"). For example, a German emigrant was delighted at her new home that friends she invited to a party actually showed up, and that dining out with friends in a restaurant could stretch on for hours, without the waiter immediately coming over with the bill.
But back to Valencia Street, in the store "X-21 Modern" (Valencia and 20th Street), you'll find not only quirky furniture but also unusual film props. Michael would love to purchase the life-sized Superman statue and set it up in our apartment. Diagonally across from "X-21 Modern" is the small store "Little Otsu," which at first glance appears to be a nice stationery shop. But we wouldn't be in San Francisco if only ordinary cards and notebooks like those in any Hallmark card store were sold here. At "Little Otsu," the cards are made from recycled paper or paper for which no tree was cut down. The inks used for printing are often soy-based. "Little Otsu" also offers T-shirts. Supporting local artisans by selling their products in the store is considered good practice.
If you're into designer clothing that isn't sewn together in China, Honduras, India, or the like, head to "House of Hengst" (between 20th and 21st Street). With the simple yet unusual pieces, you'll stand out in any German pedestrian zone. You can find the matching shoes for your outfit at "Shoe Biz" (877 Valencia Street), which carries well-known brands like Adidas, Puma, and Reebok, as well as comfortable casual shoes from the company Keen, founded in the Bay Area in 2003 and now headquartered in Portland, Oregon. If you're into Japanese designer bags by Hideo Wakamatsu: The store at number 563 is the only one in the USA that sells these wonderfully simple yet expensive pieces.
A San Francisco institution for 30 years, "Good Vibrations" is located on Valencia (corner of 17th Street). Anyone who thinks this is just an ordinary sex shop hidden away in a bad neighborhood is mistaken. The store is large and welcoming, and it is primarily aimed at women. Workshops focusing on sexuality are also offered.
If you work up an appetite from walking, head over to Valencia Street for dinner. There are a variety of restaurants to choose from. And because I'm feeling generous today, I'll share our personal favorite restaurants with you. At the top of the list is Yoyo (16th Street and Valencia), where you can get excellent sushi at reasonable prices. Interestingly, the interior looks more like a typical American diner than a Japanese restaurant. Guests can sit in a booth with red upholstery, sipping sake and enjoying their raw fish. The owner of Yoyo always laughs when we come because we usually have visitors from Germany in tow. Nearby is "Limon" (between 16th and 17th Street), which serves up Peruvian cuisine. There's plenty of fish and absolutely delicious ceviche. Ceviche is essentially a raw fish salad, prepared with herbs, lemon or lime, tomatoes, and onions.
If you're in the mood for Thai food, the best place to go is "Osha Thai" (between 19th and 20th Street). The place has this trendy vibe. You know, lots of chrome and metal and funky music. The service is a bit slow and inattentive, but the soups, for example, are super delicious. Plus, "Osha" is open all the time. For Spanish tapas and good sangria, head a bit off Valencia onto 22nd Street to "Esperpento." However, you should love garlic if you want to eat there, and make sure you don't have a dentist appointment the next day. At the "Last Supper Club" (Valencia and 23rd Street), you'll find Southern Italian home cooking waiting for you. After a meal there, we always have to roll ourselves a bit up the hill.
And if you're just in the mood for ice cream to go, stop by "Bombay Ice Creamery" (near 16th Street). The small shop sells exotic ice cream flavors like ginger, rose, fig, and cardamom. Ice cream is quite expensive in the USA, but the scoops are huge, so usually one is enough to fill you up. By the way, you should definitely avoid translating scoops as "balls," unless you want to get puzzled looks and raised eyebrows. "Balls" in expressive colloquial language refers to two parts of the male anatomy. An Ice cream portion is called "scoop." The ice cream vendor will also ask if you want the ice cream in a "cone" (waffle) or a "cup." Knock yourself out!
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